Set & Drift
During my schooling for the USCG Captain's License, I breezed through all the 'hard' topics that the other students were having problems with. "Rules of the Road" with subjects like the different lights a variety of ships performing their duties must show at night. The differences of the three main light colors of Red, White and Green placed in a myriad of positions depending on type of vessel or duty.
Fishing, Trawling, Pilot, NUC (Not Under Command, RAM (Restricted Ability to maneuver), CBD (Constrained by Draft) and even Mine Sweeping all have their specific color and placement of the 3 lights or by daylight shapes of cones or other hanging markers.
There are dozens of sound signals all meaning something VERY important to moving, towing or even anchored ships. I had no problems with these elements of the schooling and I maxed this part of the tests. It was all logical, simply rules you had to learn. Where I had my problems was in the paper chart calculations, especially 'Set & Drift". This was also the only part of the 5 part tests that I did NOT get all the answers right.
Set & Drift is calculating how much the current is pushing you away from your destination and by how much. The 'Set' is the direction of the current, the 'Drift' is how fast it is moving. You have to know the exact distance from your boat to the destination, the exact compass direction, computing things like magnetic variances and wether to add or subtract from the readings depending on a chart code. This all gets placed in a formula and is compounded by a special term called DR or 'Dead Reckoning".
I got the three questions wrong but you are allowed 3 incorrect answers on the whole test so I just squeaked by and got my 'Captain's License". I even went on to my "Master Mariner" with no more problems. Of course the questions that the Coast Guard is still asking is, to my logical mind, antiquated. They have a dozen questions on the LORAN positioning system but do not even mention GPS!
Now that I am on my new boat with all the latest electronic gadgets, I feel confident that these will guide me around the world. I have three complete GPS systems, One built in with the RayMarine "Mariner Package", One separate and independently powered for the laptop computer and one internally powered handheld with downloadable charts.
To these GPS systems, I also have 3 complete charting systems. The Navionics Platinum on 2 Gig memory cards go in the RayMarine slot in the plotter, one for each of the 20 areas of the world. On the Laptop, I have the complete World Charts from Nobeltec on a CD and a handheld GPS plotter able to download the Navionics charts depending on which area of the world you are in.
The best thing about the RayMarine E series chart plotting system is that it calculates SET & DRIFT FOR YOU. An example is on the following photo from this morning. This is my 'NavPod' containing the 12 inch RayMarine E-120 plotter. It is connected to all the other RayMarine instruments like wind, depth, speed, engine readouts and to the main plotter, the E-80 down in the Nav station. That is where I place the 2 gig memory chip. This genius reads all the electronic data from the other RayMarine units and computes many important things, among others, 'Set & Drift'!
On the left is Nicaragua, to the right is Columbia. The red square with the cross in the middle is my destination, Colon PanamaThe boat in the middle has 5 lines emanating from it. This is my current position at 09:08:11 this morning. My current boat speed SOG is 9.6 knots, my 'Course-Over-Ground' COG is 206 degrees. This heading has calculated my 'Set & Drift' for me and actually steers the boat for me with the Auto-Pilot down the black dotted line in the middle of the 3 thin lines going South from the boat.
The 5 lines around the boat are;
1) the thin red line (left) is the course the boat is steering to keep the boat headed in the direction of #2
2) the thin black line (middle) is the direct heading to the destination without any variances, or as sailors call it 'the Rhumb Line".
3) the thin green line (right) is the actual 'Course-Over-Ground' COG
4) the thick blue line is the direction the current is pushing me off course. The thicker the line, the more power it has. The red line shows how the boat has to steer to compensate for this 'Set & Drift'. the green line is the actual course. The red and green lines are always moving around and sometimes line up with the black line. That is what the course computer is doing, trying to get to the end of the black line at the red square with the cross in it.
5) the thick yellow line is the wind, also trying to blow me off course, the thicker the line, the more power in the wind. It is coming from ESE with the arrowhead touching the middle of my boat. The wind speed and direction are on the right column. Direction of the wind, apparent, (meaning the 'true' wind plus or minus the boat movement = what the boat feels - apparent wind)) is 85 degrees, wind speed is 13 knots.
Isn't modern technology amazing? I just put the curser on my destination, hit "Go To", then tell the auto-pilot to 'track' the heading, and finally go down below and make some tea.











4 Comments:
Mike,
I have a Raymarine C-70 at the helm, the previous generation to the E series. It is a marvelous invention and guides me to places on the Chesapeake Bay I would probably avoid without it. The E series, combined with a Raymarine autopilot and other instruments connected through a SeaTalk network is an incredible navigation system.
However, I recently read of a 60
footer tricked out with a similar electronics package that took a lighting strike and lost all systems. The only compass on the vessel was an electronic fluxgate compass. Could you share with us your manual backup system? I've also read that placing handheld electronics in an insulated
compartment (some people use the boat's stove) during a lightening storm will protect them against damage.
I would also be interested in hearing about your single-handed on-deck safety routine and harness system.
Smooth sailing ...
To answer your questions;
I have the complete RayMarine 'Mariner Package' from Hunter on my boat. It is fantastic!
However, in case of total power or other failure, caused by lightning or otherwise, I have come up with a system that MAY work after a lightning strike, but will surely work on it's own.
I bought a backup battery power pack with surge protection for $99. at Costco. I bought a 12 VDC / 110 v inverter at 'Harbor Freight' for $49.
The 12 volt inverter charges the battery pack and the pack keeps it's charge for days. The built in surge protection is on three 110 volt outlets.
In these 110 v outlets, I keep my laptop and small GPS unit charged and running, completely separate from the boat power.
In the laptop, I have the Nobeltec World Charts. The separate GPS is connected with a Nobeltec serial-USB connector.
This does NOT communicate with the auto pilot, but I can hand steer the boat sailing on a course even if I lose ALL power.
To this I have a small backup RayMarine GPS that will download my Navionics charts for a small coverage area. This is hand held and only tells me where I am on a chart.
As for safety, see my post: Deck Safety.
The Faraday Shield effect of placing electronic components in an oven to protect them from the EM (electromagnetic) pulses is a good idea, however, it's important to remember that there are electronics in the oven before turning it on!
We have a friend who forgot she stored her laptop in the oven and turned it into a Salvador Dahli-esque sculpture when she preheated the oven and the darn thing melted.
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